Logo courtesy Rebecca Richman, protected by copyright, see www.studiodune.com.

 

 


Forests of the Far South
    to the Panhandle of Florida &
        the Red Hills of Alabama

          
with
Dr. Bruce Means
Director of the Coastal Plains Institute and Land Conservancy
Author of Priceless Florida, and Stalking the Plumed Serpent
March 10-17, 2010

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This is the naturalist's trip of a lifetime! We will be visiting a Florida not found in the tourist books--a place that has retained the  flavor of "Old Florida," from the days when it was a massive unbroken wilderness area composed of a complex mosaic of natural communities. The Panhandle of Florida has some of the largest forests left to be found east of the Mississippi. It is here that the temperate deciduous forest dances on its southernmost periphery with native southern pine forests and subtropical southern hardwoods. It is also here, not so long ago in geologic time, that the temperate deciduous forest found refuge during the coldest of the Ice Age advances. Along the great Apalachicola River, this same forest, more at home in the Blue Ridge of the Appalachians than it is in Florida, has hung on until present day. From the crystal-clear springs of Wakulla and its champion-sized hardwood trees, to the coastal lowlands and seepage bogs with their carnivorous plant communities, to the nearby Red Hills of Alabama --this trip will lead participants into some of Eastern America's most special natural areas, far off the usual sightseeing routes. Many of our destinations are relatively unknown, and are  often visitor-restricted; they simply cannot be accessed without a guide who holds the key. For us. that guide is Florida's renowned interpretive naturalist and foremost ecologist, Bruce Means. -- researcher, author, conservationist, non-profit founder, professor, and herpetologist, just to name a few of his many appellations. Without exaggeration, there is not a person alive today better qualified to lead this trip into the backwoods and backwaters of Northern Florida. Coming from the staff of the Appalachian Forest School, we say, "We wouldn't miss this trip for anything!"

Bruce Means
(see Bruce's website for research & articles)

Dr. Bruce Means is President and Executive Director of the Coastal Plains Institute and Land Conservancy, a nonprofit organization he and others founded in 1984 dedicated to elevating public awareness for conserving the rich biodiversity of the vast Coastal Plain of the southeastern United States. He is an Adjunct Professor of Biological Science at Florida State University where he has taught courses on the ecology of upland, wetland, and coastal environments of the southeastern U.S., and courses on vertebrate biology, ichthyology, mammalogy, herpetology, general biology, tropical ecology, and conservation biology. His research includes a wide variety of topics ranging from ecosystems of the southeastern U.S. to fire ecology, the natural history of South American tepuis, biogeography, conservation, endangered species, and the evolution and natural history of amphibians and reptiles. He has published more than 265 scientific articles, technical reports, and popular articles on his research in National Wildlife, International Wildlife, Natural History, BBC Wildlife, National Geographic, Fauna, South American Explorer, and other magazines. His books include two on the ecology of Florida: Stalking the Plumed Serpent, a book featuring herpetological stories, and an epic ecology book called Priceless Florida. Priceless Florida was painstakingly created over a period of sixteen years. With its reader-friendly format and rich photos and illustrations, it is one of the few natural history books that have earned respect and praise from both the academic and layman audiences. From 1998 to the present, his life stories and research has been featured in documentary films for National Geographic Television (King Rattler; Quest for the Rainbow Serpent; Into the Lost World; Saving the King of Snakes; Diamondback Survivors, etc.), BBC Television, and PBS. Bruce Means currently lives in Tallahassee and relishes his time spent in the woodlands, swamps, and bogs of the Florida Panhandle—as well as leading expeditions into the vast wilderness areas of other continents.

 Schedule

Wednesday, March 10, 2010 - Day 1

Ð Fly or drive to Thomasville, GA
Ð Check-in to Jameson Inn
Ð Explore on your own
Ð Dinner with the group
Ð
Introduction by Bruce Means: Panhandle Florida--Biodiversity Hotspot

Old Growth Longleaf Pines copyright Bruce Means

 

Thursday, March 11, 2010 - Day 2

Ð Exploring pine forests at Pebble Hill Plantation
Ð
Visit Wade Longleaf Forest, lunch in the woods
Ð
Greenwood Plantation - old growth longleaf pine forest
Ð Visit
Tall Timbers Research Station fire plots
Ð Dinner in Tallahassee

Ð Check-in Wakulla Lodge
Ð Lecture 2: Landscape and River Dynamics; Apalachicola Bluffs & Ravines Biotic Area

To begin our journey, we will be exploring the longleaf pine forests of Southern Georgia and Northern Florida, a unique ecosystem that once dominated the Coastal Plain, but is now highly endangered. AtRed Cockaded Woodpecker, Photo by Bruce Means copyrighted Greenwood Plantation, we will see one of less than 15 documented stands of remaining old growth longleaf pine forests. Mature longleaf pine forests provide habitat for the rare Red-cockaded Woodpecker (Picoides borealis), a species that can only thrive in living pines that are 70 years or older --large enough to provide nesting sites. We will quietly look for evidence of such nesting cavities among the trees.

The longleaf pine forest is an ecosystem dominated by the cycle of fire and renewal. Once, natural lightning-caused fires scrubbed the grounds beneath the pines of encroaching hardwoods on a regular basis. Today, in our "civilized" fire-suppressed environments, fires must be carefully set aWakulla Lodge by Crystal Marvinnd managed by people in order to keep these forest ecosystems intact. At Tall Timbers Research Station we will learn about this imperative management technique, and the intricate fire-dance associated with the species-rich community of the longleaf pines.

We will then proceed to Wakulla Springs State Park, a 6000 acre preserve where we will enjoy dinner and Bruce Means' evening program, then an overnight stay at the historic Wakulla Springs Lodge. The native word Wakulla is thought to mean "strange and mysterious waters." Guides who work there say, "We know where the water is going (nine miles later it joins the Gulf of Mexico), but no one knows where it comes from." Wakulla Springs is one of the largest and deepest freshwater springs in the world, originating in an underwater cave and connected to over 12 miles of underwater tunnels. The main vent spews out 400,000 gallons of crystal clear waters every minute from an 85 X 55 foot vent that is 185 feet below the ground.

Several major forest types are found in the park supporting an extremely high plantAligator at Wakulla by Crystal Marvin diversity, even for Florida. Included are: old-growth floodplain forests, mixed hardwood swamp forests, longleaf pine forests, and extensive upland hardwood forests including some of the most beautiful American beech-southern magnolia forests to be found in the South. Beech-magnolia forest, also called Southern temperate hardwood forests, have more tree species than any other single forest in the continent, with up to 35 species in one location. The park shelters large acreages of forests that have not been disturbed for years. Sixteen species of state champion trees or close contenders can be found at Wakulla. The lodge, where we are staying, is on the National Register of Historic Places and the park is designated as a National Natural Landmark.

The lodge was built as an elegant retreat in 1937 by Edward Ball on his 3000-acre estate, a legendary financier and meddler (some say) in Florida politics. The lodge boasts marble walls and floors, hand-painted cypress ceilings, and wrought iron fences with designs of native birds. Fortunately, Edward Ball believed it was important to keep wild Florida safe for future generations. His private park came under state management in 1985.

Alum Bluff at Apalachicola copyright Bruce Means

 

Friday, March 12, 2010 - Day 3

Ð Wakulla Springs hardwood hammock
Ð Apalachicola Bluffs and Ravines Preserve
Ð Eroded streams and steephead ravines
Ð Suttons Lake bottomland swamp forest
Ð Dinner
with the group

Ð Check-in Quincy Inn
Ð Lecture 3: Apalachicola Lowlands Biotic Area

Starting off the day with breakfast at Wakulla Lodge, we will explore the hardwood hammock of Wakulla Springs. This interesting forest grows on very slight rises above the surrounding marsh land, and supports a diverse mix of Eastern hardwoods among more semi-tropical species. Magnolia copyright Bruce Means

We will then travel to the Apalachicola Bluffs and Ravines Preserve. According to local Appalachicola Bluffs and Ravines, Photo by Crystal Marvinhistory, this area of Florida was once believed to be the original Garden of Eden. Indeed, the botanists may think so as the the bluffs and ravines are recognized worldwide as a hotbed for botanical diversity. Several shrubs and trees resemble species from Eastern Asian temperate forests, and a few mosses and ferns are found more commonly in Mexican cloud forests. But the signature botanicals in the area are components of a classic Appalachian temperate forest, making a visitor feel like he or she has just landed in the Smokey Mountains.

  The Apalachicola Bluffs and Ravines is a 6,295 acre preserve on the east side of the Apalachicola River occupying a region that has the highest elevation in the state. In the sandhill region of the river, where we will be visiting, the landscape is known for its side tributaries which contain so-called steephead ravines. These ravines are 50-100-feet v-shaped valleys whose headwaters begin abruptly in the open pine savannas on the flatlands. The steep ravines' immediate physical presence as opposed to a gradually deepening channel, and the fact that they are filled with a tight canopy of broad-leafed trees, presents quite a contrasting environment to the xeric pine flatwoods that surround them. On the north-facing  slopes grow bladdernuts, hickories, hopApalachicola Dusky Salamanders copyright Bruce Means hornbeams, redbud, bigleaf magnolia and beech. On the south-facing slopes is the rare, vanishing Torreya Pine along with red buckeye, spruce pine, southern magnolia, and white oak. Small streams of water run almost continuously on the valley floor, coming not from the flatlands above, but directly out of the sand on the valley floor! Each steephead ravine's population of amphibians and invertebrates is virtually isolated from the others, separated by the harsh, dry pinewoods. Flatwoods are very vulnerable to heat, high winds and fire; whereas the climate of a steephead ravine is shady, moist, cool, dependable and still. Consequently, endemic species and slight species variations are very common in this region. In essence each steephead ravine has almost its own distinguishable wildlife community. The single 35-mile stretch of ravines on the East side of the Apalachicola has more plant and animal species, and more endemics (100-plus species), than any other area the same size in the SE coastal plain.

 

 

Field of Pitcher Plants in Bloom copyright Bruce Means

 

Saturday, March 13, 2010 - Day 4

Ð Explore flatwoods salamander habitat
Ð Camel Lake; epiphyte pond
Ð Carnivorous plant communities at Post Office Bay

Ð Hillside seepage bogs and cypress stands at
     Tate's Hell

Ð Dinner
in Port St. Joe

Ð Check in to Port Inn Hotel
Ð Lecture 4: Sandhills Ecology and Temporary Ponds

We will be exploring some of the Panhandle's most unique plant communities - epiphytes, or "air plants", and the endlessly fascinating carnivorous plants. Both have evolved with ingenious adaptations in order to thrive in their nutrient-poor environments.

We will then travel to Tate's Hell Swamp, located in the 202,437 acre Tate's Hell State Forest. The enigmatic name of the region is said to come from a traveler who became lost in the impenetrable wetland. We, with the expert guidance of Bruce Means, expect to observe the cypress stands and bogs of the area without such trouble! The dwarf cypress stands of Sundew by Crystal MarvinTate's Hell are home to trees documented to be over 150 years old, but only reaching a mature height of 15 feet. Their stunted forms have been unappealing to the logging industry, fortunately leaving several communities in their pristine old growth state.

In the evening we will brush off our muddy hiking boots and make our way down to beautiful Port St. Joe on the Gulf Coast for a delicious dinner of fresh seafood and a stay in a waterside inn, enjoying an evening program about the sandhills ecosystem.

Florida Kayak Trip 2009 by Crystal Marvin

 

Sunday, March 14, 2010 - Day 5

Ð Canoe trip on scenic Econfina Creek
Ð Sandhills habitat at NW Florida Water Management District
Ð Dinner with the group
Ð Check-in Evro Motel in Evro
Ð Lecture 5: Springs of Florida, Ancient Megafauna, and
     N. America's Early People

The Northwest Florida Water Management District owns a majority of the Econfina Creek corridor, creating superb wildlife habitat. A leisurely four hour trip will afford us plenty of time to paddle through an area of deep blue springs and clear waters surrounded by a mixed ecosystem of palms, hardwoods, and cypress. This paddle is definitely off the tourist routes, and without a guide, one would likely become lost.

We will continue in the Water Management District land during the afternoon to get our first look at a sandhills habitat. The classic sandhills habitat is a forest of widely-spaced longleaf pines with a low grass cover that gives these areas an almost park-like appearance. Fire is a major component in the sandhills ecosystem, and many of the ground cover plants have adapted to a 3-5 year cycle of burning. We will learn more about the endangered longleaf pine and how these remarkable trees not only survive, but thrive, in a fire-maintained community.Florida Pine Forest by Crystal Marvin

Monday, March 15, 2010 - Day 6
Ð
Morning at Nokuse Plantation
Ð Visit E.O. Wilson Biophilia Center

Ð Visit Live Oak Creek and Patterson Natural Area

Ð Swimming in Boiling Creek
Ð Dinner at a seafood restaurant

Ð Check-in Red Roof Inn, Milton, FL  
Ð Lecture 6: Overview

 

Gopher Turtle copyright Matt Aresco, Director, Nokuse Plantation

 

We will turn over the morning program to gopher tortoise expert and naturalist Bob Walker, of Nokuse Plantation. Nokuse is a 48,000 acre preserve focusing on the restoration of sandhills, longleaf pine, and other Panhandle habitats. Their innovative gopher tortoise relocation program moves members of this key species from development sites all over Florida to the protected land of the preserve. We will take a guided hike inside the preserve, visiting burrows where these shy, beautiful creatures make their homes. We will then tour the visitor center of Nokuse, the E.O.Wilson Biophilia Center.

In the afternoon, we will accompany trip leader Bruce Means to the wilderness of Eglin Air Force Base. This huge government land maintains several wildlife management areas, including Patterson Natural Area. The Eglin area boasts the largest tract of old growth longleaf pines in the world, as well as the fourth largest population of red-cockaded woodpeckers. We will take a break to swim in the clear waters of Boiling Creek before heading out to dinner and our final evening presentation.

 

Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - Day 7Southern Hardwoods copyright Bruce Means

Ð Blackwater Creek State Park
     longleaf pine forest

Ð Hillside seepage bogs
Ð Alabama paleo-archeology site

Ð Check-in: Days Inn, Monroeville, AL
Ð Dinner with group

Ð Night-walk for Alabama Red Hills Salamander

On our last full day in Florida, we will visit Blackwater Creek State Park. Blackwater Creek has spectacular second-growth longleaf pine forests managed with annual burning. The park also boasts some of the outstanding examples of hillside seepage bogs in the Panhandle. We will then head across the border to Alabama to leave natural history for a few moments while we explore human and cultural history. In the Red Hill regions we will study the earthwork remains of some of the oldest mound building cultures on the continent.

The spectacular Red Hill region of Southern Alabama is characterized by summits and deep gullies, cascading streams, and a heavy cover of Southern hardwood forest. In the evening we will accompany Bruce Means on a night hike in search of a glimpse of the nationally endangered Red Hills Salamander (Phaeognathus hubrichti). The Red Hills Salamander is a large terrestrial salamander with a prehensile tail nearly as long as its body. An adult approaches the impressive length of ten inches, and is most often found on the slopes of moist, cool ravines, shaded by hardwood trees. This salamander is distinguished in being Alabama's official State Salamander, and indeed, it is limited in distribution to Alabama, being found in only five of its counties. A mere 150 acres of suitable habitat for the Red Hills Salamander is publicly owned, documenting why this salamander leads such a precarious existence.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Ð Travel home safely!
 


 

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